Bogota is a big city, and it’s a very gay-friendly city (it just happens to be home to the largest gay nightclub in the entire Western Hemisphere, a lively place called Theatron). But one thing that Bogota doesn’t have is overly warm weather and sun-soaked swimming pools. So where do gay travelers and gay locals go when they need a break but don’t want to jump on a plane? The answer is frequently Melgar.
This is where gay guys in Bogota come to get naked outdoors. There are no beaches within an easy drive from Colombia’s capital city, so sun-seekers looking for warm weather take a two- to three-hour drive to Melgar, a town of about 36,000 located in the department of Tolima.
During my visit this year, I stayed at one of two or three gay-specific hotels: El Recreo, which, some repeat visitors told me, is the nicest of the bunch. Tucked into Valle de los Lanceros, a gated upscale community of fincas and country homes, El Recreo is a 24-room gay hotel in Colombia that’s been focused on gay travelers for 14 years and recently relaunched with a new administration. For now, they still don’t even have a website beyond a Facebook page, so you won’t find much in terms of online information or property photos.
Lush and nicely landscaped, the first thing you see when you pass through the gate is a rainbow-colored basketball backboard, an indicator that you’ve arrived in a gay hotel. Behind the bushes, a decently sized swimming pool is surrounded by chairs, tables and chaise lounges as well as sunny yellow umbrellas. A few feet away is a group of four, two-story buildings centered around a small courtyard with covered tables and chairs. Off to one side of the parking lot is a walled-in area designated for nude sunbathing; but unfortunately there is no pool or shower there, just some places to lie down.
I stayed in room 501, which has a king-size bed. On the first floor of each building, three rooms open onto a shared living room area and very basic kitchenette, with a sink, counter and cabinets but not much else. Décor is rather basic, but the general consensus is that this is the nicest of the gay hotels in Melgar. Walls are clean white, as are the sheets, and there are random stock images of sexy men — in jock straps or various stages of undress — tacked onto the walls in some rooms. This is not a place to stay connected. There is no Wifi, the roaming signal is weak, and there isn’t even an outlet that I could find in the bedroom — only in the bathroom, which is small, clean and very basic, with a tiny shower (with no hot water).
Most rooms do not have air conditioning; we chose one that does. An important thing to note is that there is no WiFi anywhere on the property, as noted by signs that encourage guests to talk among themselves rather than connect. Even the roaming signal was very weak, making it very difficult to keep in touch.
This hotel is best visited by car; especially since there isn’t anything within walking distance in the gated community, and the restaurants, shopping and nightlife of downtown Melgar are about a 10-minute drive. It’s also probably best visited when there is a special event, which usually take place about once a month, with a different theme that serves as an excuse for bringing male strippers to the pool area for lively after-dark parties. (I visited from Sunday to Tuesday, and the hotel was very peaceful and not full during those days — which may be preferable for those looking for peace and quiet with friends or a loved one.)
In short, El Recreo is a pleasant and attractive warm-weather side trip for gay travelers in Bogota. But be prepared that — in spite of the prices — you won’t have WiFi, you won’t have hot water and your roaming signal may be less than reliable.