Mexico City has more museums than any other city in the world except London, according to the city tourism office. With more than 170 museums both large and small dotting Mexico’s capital, you could spend a lifetime exploring the city’s cultural institutions. And that’s kind of what I’ve been doing for the past 20 years.
Every time I visit Mexico City I discover a new museum. Sure, first-time visitors should check out the Museo Nacional de Antropologia (National Anthropology Museum) first — it’s one of the world’s finest anthropology facilities. But beyond that, you can dive into just about any area of interest and find a museum in Mexico City to match. Interested in shoes? Check out the Museo del Calzado El Borceguí. Telegraphs? the Museo del Telégrafo. Vintage toys? The trippy Museo del Juguete Antiguo.
During my most recent visit, I focused on art in the Centro HIstórico (the historic downtown) and — armed with a list of must-see art museums in Mexico City — I indulged in two days of wandering, and found even more than I had planned. I even made a quick travel video for my Instagram reels about it. Here are some of my top choices for great art museums in Mexico City’s Centro Histórico:
Museo Nacional del Arte (National Museum of Art): Monet is the big draw here through August 27, 2023, but this expansive, palatial museum is a year-round treasure trove of Mexican art from various eras, with paintings, sculpture and photography (and the historic building itself is gorgeous).
Museo Franz Mayer: This beloved art and design museum has an extensive permanent collection of artworks and decorative arts from various centuries. It’s the kind of place that’s worth repeat visits, since its hosts a variety of noteworthy temporary exhibits — which currently include World Press Photo 2023 (through October 8, 2023) and Steve McCurry: Icons (through September 3, 2023).
Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes: The Palacio de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Palace) is an architectural gem in the heart of the city and a popular venue for outstanding live music and dance performances. But the venue is worth a visit even if you’re not going to see a show. The museum features massive, once-controversial murals by some of Mexico’s greatest muralists including Diego Rivera and José Clemente Orozco, as well as temporary exhibits. On my most recent visit, I was floored by “Dioses y Máquinas” (Gods and Machines), a breathtaking and devastating video installation by Santiago Sierra Soler that explores the violent arrival of Spanish conquistadores in what is now Mexico, as well as the process of mestizaje (blending of ethnicities and races). You can watch a video with clips from various parts of the exhibit here.
Colegio San Ildefonso (College of San Ildefonso): Set in a beautiful 18th-century structure that once served as a Jesuit school, San Ildefonso now hosts a range of temporary art exhibits as well as a permanent collection of murals set dramatically within the historic structure, with works by Diego Rivera and José Clemente Orozco. If you’re in town for a while, you may also want to check out the venue’s activity schedule, as they sometimes host drawing and sketching tours and other events, including activities for children.
Ex Teresa Arte Actual (Ex Teresa Current Art): The former church and convent of Santa Teresa la Antigua, which dates to the 17th century, today provides a dramatic backdrop for diverse exhibits, as well as concerts and performance art. During my visit I was blown away by the works of Liam Young, an Australian artist and speculative architect who designed Planet City, an imagined settlement in which all of earth’s inhabitants live in one soaring and strange metropolis. The videos were even trippier thanks to dark lighting and the slanted floors of the centuries-old museum.
Centro Cultural de España (Cultural Center of Spain): This cultural venue, set behind the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral and just steps from the ruins of Teotihuacán, is small but often hosts interesting exhibits on multiple floors; admission is free.
Museo de la Caricatura (Museum of Caricature): On a much smaller scale than the other venues listed, but still interesting, is the Museum of Caricature, which is set in a historic building and features a collection of vintage and current caricatures, some of which are political in nature. It’s especially interesting to visit when there are artists on site creating and selling their work.
There are lots of things to do in Mexico City, of course, and the art museums downtown are just a few of the placed you could visit. And with so many cultural institutions around the city, you’ll never get bored in Mexico City, regardless of your interests!
I’m a travel writer, travel blogger and Mexico travel specialist, and I love sharing travel tips to make your next vacation or business trip better. I’ve also written a memoir: Prepare for Departure: Notes on a Single Mother, a Misfit Son, Inevitable Mortality and the Enduring Allure of Frequent Flyer Miles. It’s a coming-of-age story, a coming-out story and an end-of-life-story about the journeys that families must sometimes take together (it also happens to be quite funny, according to reviewers).
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